Antique Emerald and Diamond Serpent Necklace

Created in the late 19th century, this important antique emerald and diamond snake necklace is mounted in silver-topped gold. Set with over 67 carats of diamonds, the necklace is designed as a life-like serpent that softly encircles the neck, suspending a head set with a rectangular step-cut emerald weighing approximately 3.50 carats, an old European-cut diamond weighing approximately 3.29 carats, and cabochon ruby eyes, the body of highly flexible scales with approximately 49 carats of graduating old European and old mine-cut diamonds, further set with diamond melee, all mounted in subtly-patinated silver-topped gold. Part of the long historic tradition of snake jewelry stretching back to antiquity, this beautiful, sparkling antique jewel molds softly to the neck and collarbone, with a fully modern naturalism.

Dimensions: 14" length.
Materials: 1 emerald-cut emerald (weighing approximately 3.50 carats); 52 larger old European-cut diamonds; (approximate total weight 52.25 carats); 165 smaller old European and old mine-cut diamonds (approximate total weight 15.20 carats); Silver-topped gold
Gram Weight: 129.2 g.
Documentation: Accompanied by certificate #1147696 from the American Gemological Laboratory (AGL) stating that the emerald is of Colombian origin, with insignificant to minor oil treatment.
Literature: Of a similar sensibility and scale, an antique snake bracelet, possibly English, dating from the late 19th century and set with a number of large step-cut emeralds and diamonds is pictured in The Jeweled Menagerie, by Suzanne Tennenbaum and Janet Zapata, p. 43.

A universal motif with common cross-cultural meanings, the serpent has been revered throughout history as a symbol of love, renewal and rebirth. Serpent jewelry has been popular since antiquity. On Ancient Egyptian crowns, the snake was a symbol of royalty and divinity. In Ancient Greek culture, and in later in the Roman world including Egypt, gold snake bracelets were worn in pairs and were associated with fertility, prosperity and healing. In Europe, the style enjoyed a long-lived revival under the young Queen Victoria, who wore a snake bracelet given her by Prince Alfred as a pledge of his love. Serpent necklaces, too, in gold, enamel or mounted with turquoise or precious stones were immensely popular in England through the 1860s-1870s. In his comprehensive History of Nineteenth Century French Jewellery, Henri Vever illustrates a striking snake necklace with diamond head set with large emeralds dating from 1855, while an 1889 serpent by the brilliant Parisian innovator Oscar Massin is mounted with large diamonds and pearls. A late 19th century homage to a beloved form, this opulent emerald and diamond necklace looks ahead in its streamlined form to the famous serpent jewels Bulgari would begin to create fifty years later.