Framed Chinese Antique Embroidery Silk Collar Qing Dynasty

A silk collar from China dated to Qing Dynasty circa 19th century. Known as Yunjian (Cloud Shoulder or Cloud Collar), this multi-lobed textile piece was a detachable collar worn around the shoulders as part of the traditional Chinese garment accessory. With its origin dated back to the Han Dynasty and being used until the end of Qing Dynasty, the form evolves with time, but much of the ornamentation and fundamental symbolism remains the same.
This example features a four-tiered design in a soft blue-purple-pink color palette. The elongated petals extend from the center in the shape of auspicious "ruyi" that represents the head of Lingzhi mushroom, a symbol of longevity. Two tiers morphed into the butterfly form. The surface was decorated with delicate embroidery work of floral design with long and short satin stitches. The border was ornamented with chain stitches in gold metallic threads. Small dark agate beads were strung along the strings that link the piece together and most of them still remain. The piece was beautifully presented in a comforting mat with gilt border and a gilt wood frame for display.
In Qing Dynasty, the silk collar with high quality was worn by noble or aristocratic women. The red color and the lotus boy symbol indicate that it was most likely part of the fashion accouterment worn during wedding ceremony.
Reference: For a collection of Chinese embroidered collars, see page 736-745 of book "Imperial Silks Ch'ing Dynasty Textile in the Minneapolis Institute of Arts".