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Antique Japanese Textile Art Campaign Jacket Jinbaori with Mon

Origin

Japan

Period

19th Century

Materials

silk, wool, cotton, MOP

Dimensions

W.	25 in;	H.	42 in;	D.	0.25 in;
W.	63.5 cm;	H.	106.68 cm;	D.	0.64 cm;

Condition

Good. Fine antique textile condition, a few scattered punctures on the red wool layer, around neck and the breast tie. The largest one on the lower right is about 0.2 inch in diameter which is visible on the first picture and also shown in a closeup.

Creation Date

19th century

Description

Known as Jinabori during 16th century when warfare was common in feudal Japan, the sleeveless jacket was created to be worn outside of the armor by samurai warriors. In addition to serving as a further protection while allowing free movement, the bright color and the family crest (mon) on the back also function as a visual identification of the clan and rank of the wearer. In Edo period, when the society was stabilized, these types of the jackets gradually shifted toward ceremonial function from the battlefield. Made of expensive material such as fine wool, linen for the exterior and elaborate silk brocade (kinran) for the flap and interior lining, this rare and well preserved Jinabori on offer adhered to the classic vest form with front lapel that can flap open or close fastened by MOP buttons, a tie on the front with matching button and a high slit on the back. The placement of the two shoulder bands on top of the façade instead of directly above the shoulder suggests that it was made for ceremonial use consistent with its age (late Endo period circa 19th century). The back features a Hanabishi mon (Diamond-shape flower) as an identification crest for the clan.
The jacket is not framed and can be framed or displayed on a hanging rod as one wishes.
For reference and analysis on two similar Jinabori, see page 302-305 of "A New Yorker's View of the World The John C. Weber Collection.

Styles / Movements

Asian, Bespoke, Traditional

Patterns

Damask, Florals/Botanical, Geometric, Handmade

Incollect Reference Number

447810