Late Edwardian Pendant Watch Sautoir

Created in the early 20th century, this late Edwardian pendant watch necklace is composed of seed pearls, diamonds, and platinum. The elongated strap of delicate seed pearl and platinum mesh is accented by platinum quatrefoil and bellflower motifs, suspends a French pendant watch with openwork case, Arabic numeral dial, and rose-cut diamond winding stem, both set throughout with old mine and old European-cut diamonds, and with millegrain accents. Gauzy and intricate, like a refined textile made of pearls and diamonds, this elegant sautoir pairs beautifully with easy contemporary dress.

Dimensions: 21.75" length.
Materials: 491 old European and old mine-cut diamonds (approximate total weight 4.65 carats); seed pearls; Platinum
Gram Weight: 52.8 grams
Signed: Pendant watch with French assay marks and partial maker's mark

Sautoirs formed of woven mesh of platinum and seed pearls appeared in the late Edwardian period, following the modern innovation in couture toward the slim, vertical silhouette, exemplified in the US by the slender and willowy Gibson Girl. The tremendous tensile strength of platinum allowed the pearls to be joined almost invisibly to each other with an extreme minimum of metal, allowing for the appearance of great delicacy combined with surprising durability.