Antique Framed Japanese Silk Kesa Monk's Robe Edo Period

A Japanese Kesa (Monk's Vestment) made from thirteen columns of patchworks of brocades set within a border of the same material. The brocade was woven from a subtle color palette of light brown, gold, beige and white without any bright colors. The elaborate motifs feature a complex and repetitive floral, vines and phoenix deign, set in small blocks interlocked blocks with geometrical pattern. The random patchwork and the mottled colors made the piece more visually intriguing. Five silk squares in contrasting patterns and colors were sewn to the four corners and one longitude side of the Kesa, completing the symbolism of the robe. The four smaller squares in the corners are white silk with scrolling pattern and phoenix roundel represent the Four Heavenly Kings (Shi Tenno); while the much larger square in the middle section with gold peony roundel on a blue background represents the compassionate bodhisattva. The Kesa is housed in a wood floating frame with a silver leaf edge. The lining in the back was removed except for the four corner to reveal the patchwork. Overall, the textile presents beautifully with an attractive air of antiquity.
Kesa is derived from the Sanskrit word kasaya, meaning “dark colored,” a reference to the saffron colored robes worn by early Indian Buddhist monks. It is essentially a rectangular cloth originally sewn from patches of rags, being formless, it serves as a symbolism of the ascetic life of one's choosing. In Japan, since at least the Heian period (794–1185), the kesa has been worn by Buddhist priests as their outermost robe, draped over the left shoulder and attached under the right armpit. While it served some function of protection, it was more a signal of the wearer’s faith, and became increasingly elaborate over the centuries. During the Edo period (1600–1868), many kesa worn were patched together from exquisite silk brocade fabrics that were donated to the temples by members of the aristocracy, ruling military class, or wealthy merchants. By stitching the fabric into a patchwork robe, the monks concentrated their attention on the creation of a devotional work of art, every stitch part of an act of meditation on the teachings of the Buddha. The number of stripes (from 5 to up to 25) indicates the wearer’s rank and the occasion for which it was worn, the highest number of stripes usually only being worn by an abbot during festival ceremonies. The normal daily kesa generally have seven columns. The kesa on offer is more likely a ceremonial robe for special occasion.