Antique Japanese Silk Kesa Monk's Robe Meiji Era Rare Devotional Inscription

A Japanese Kesa (Monk's Vestment) with a rare and detailed ink dedication inscription verso dated to 1876. This Kesa robe was made from thirteen columns of patchworks of fine shimmering silk fabric in a salmon-orange color, the shade of which changed subtly from different angles of light. Consists of seven columns of patchwork alternate with six thinner continuous columns and bordered in an outer skirt, the silk fabric showcases delicate woven motifs of family-mons and tortoise shell pattern in golden-foiled threads, forming repetitive patterns permeating the entire surface. Six brocade squares in contrasting white color with crane figure were sewn to the four corners and two along the longitude side. The four squares in the corners represent the Four Heavenly Kings (Shi Tenno); while two squares in the middle section with represent compassionate bodhisattvas. The Kesa is lined with a delicate silk backing with a complete ink inscription of dedication. The information shows the name of the donor, the occasion of a renovation of a statue, the temple it was donated to (Tokurin-an in Kyoto) and the date and the year of the donation (Meiji 9th year April 4th). This wonderful information provides a great historical context of this textile.
Kesa is derived from the Sanskrit word kasaya, meaning “dark colored,” a reference to the saffron colored robes worn by early Indian Buddhist monks. It is essentially a rectangular cloth originally sewn from patches of rags, being formless, it serves as a symbolism of the ascetic life of one's choosing. In Japan, since at least the Heian period (794–1185), the Kesa has been worn by Buddhist priests as their outermost robe, draped over the left shoulder and attached under the right armpit. While it served some function of protection, it was more a signal of the wearer’s faith and became increasingly elaborate over the centuries. During the Edo period (1600–1868), many Kesa worn were patched together from exquisite silk brocade fabrics that were donated to the temples by members of the aristocracy, ruling military class, or wealthy merchants. By stitching the fabric into a patchwork robe, the monks concentrated their attention on the creation of a devotional work of art, every stitch part of an act of meditation on the teachings of the Buddha. The number of stripes (from 5 to up to 25) indicates the wearer’s rank and the occasion for which it was worn, the highest number of stripes usually only being worn by an abbot during festival ceremonies. The normal daily Kesa generally has seven columns. The Kesa on offer is more likely a ceremonial robe for special occasion.