Rare Antique Japanese Leather Fireman Jacket Kawabaori with Stencil Design

A Japanese Fireman's leather Coat known as Kawabaori circa mid-late 19th century of Edo Period. The robe was made from a deer skin smoke dyed with stenciled pattern. Animal skin was a material rarely used in Japanese attires historically due to the strong belief in Buddhism. The workmen would have been of low cast or outcasts of the society who were considered unclean (they were known as Eta). Due to the high cost of the leather, such jacket would have been a lavish gift to the battalion chief of firefighter brigades by associated merchant houses and used as a ceremonial wear rather than functional firefighting uniform.
The pattern on this Kawabaori was created using stencil against the smoke dye, which turned the light skin color into the deep brown in the background except the areas of the covered design which remained a lighter color. A large round Mon Crest on the back indicates the family name Yamaki (Mountain Tree). This traditionally would be the family name of the donor. The lower part of the back was covered in archaic Kanji: the characters in the bottom row are Kun-yomi, which mean "to see"; the characters on the upper row appear to be Buddhism symbol including Swatika sign. The design continues to the lower part of the front. On the upper part of the lapel, there are a pair of highly stylized archaic form of Kanji, a decorative writing form called Kakuji in Japan, popular during Edo period for ceremonial use. These two characters are most likely "Ken Shou" in Japanese, meaning "Robust/Healthy and Longevity". The lapels were dyed indigo blue on the underside, matching the color of the interior. On the top part of interior under the collar, there is a smaller Mon with five circles. This is called Umebachi (Plum Blossom). possibly the family crest of the wearer as the receiver of this garment. The leather loop under either side of the lapels still remains.
The garment has been well preserved, intact without any damage. It displays a deep warm patina commensurate with age and ceremonial use. It can be dated to the 19th century with confidence. A rare sample of Japanese textile art.
For two comparable deer skin Kawabaoris, see page 174-177 of the book "Textile of Japan" Edition Prestel.
Now in the collection of Minneapolis Institute of Art accession no 2019.20.122 and 2019.20.120.