Etruscan Revival Cameo Bracelet

Created circa 1860–1870, this Etruscan Revival 18K gold and shell cameo bracelet likely originates from the Italian peninsula. It is mounted with high relief carved cameos of Diana, Jupiter, Juno, Saturn, and Mercury, as well as a later cameo of a Renaissance figure, each framed by applied wire and bead work, and joined by columnar links. Of delicate carving and skilled Revivalist gold work, this elegant collection of cameo gods and goddesses is graceful and light on the arm.

Country: Possibly Papal States
Dimensions: 6.50" length.
Materials: 18K Gold
Gram Weight: 58.3

According to jewelry scholars Peter Hinks and Vivian Becker, large helmet shells had first been skillfully carved into cameos starting in the fifteenth or sixteenth centuries. The craft was revived in Sicily around 1805. A friendly material to work with, but requiring multiple stages of carving and polishing with specialized tools and materials, helmet shells yield layers of white, brown and cornelian tones. As the jewels' popularity grew through the 19th century, specialized Italian artisans were sought after for their skills not only in Italy but in Paris and London, where Italians dominated this rarified branch of the arts. The high level of detail in the features of gods and goddesses achieved in the soft material of this bracelet suggests an accomplished carver at work.