Marcus & Co. Art Nouveau Emerald and Diamond Plaque

Created around 1897 by Marcus & Co., New York, this jewel is composed of carved emeralds, diamonds, plique-à-jour enamel and 18K gold. The scrolling plaque designed as unfurling plique-à-jour enamel leaves and carved emerald buds is highlighted by diamond dewdrops, and is chased and engraved throughout. A refined example of George Marcus's avant garde Art Nouveau design, this plaque mounted as a dog collar is one of those distinctive high-style flower jewels which exemplify the firm's best work.

Circa: 1897
Dimensions: Plaque: 2.00" width, 2.00" length
Materials: Three carved emerald beads (weighing approximately 5.50, 4.90 and 3.90 carats); 84 old European and old mine-cut diamonds (approximate total weight 1.83 carats); Plique-à-jour enamel; 18K gold
Gram Weight: 45.7
Signed: MARCUS & CO., O650
Literature: For a design drawing of this jewel, see Marcsu & Co.: Three generations of New York Jewelers, p. 136, fig. 235, and the Marcus design drawings at Darthmouth's Rauner Library, volume 'Miscellaneous", image 49.

By the late 1890s, Marcus & Co. had been selling the pioneering jewels of René Lalique for several years to New York clients. George Marcus, the founder's son, chief designer, and client whisperer, had fallen under the spell of the French Art Nouveau and its chief proponent, and he developed his own exuberant, distinctive version of this international style, well represented here by this unique jewel. The carved emeralds may have been acquired by George in India, as he and his father Herman and brother William had toured numerous Indian regions in 1895 to study and collect historic Indian jewelry and gems.