Marcus & Co. Plique-à-jour Enamel and Peridot Necklace

Designed around 1904, this plique-à-jour enamel, peridot and pearl necklace is mounted in 18K gold. The necklace is composed of a lobed pendant and shaped elements of pale green plique-à-jour enamel highlighted by cabochon peridots and pearls, with festoon chains and fringe of peridot beads and pearls, with scrolling and chased gold elements throughout. A significant and original creation of an innovative American firm at its height, this beautifully draped necklace with its subtle color palette speaks to its inspiration by the Parisian Art Nouveau and its sophisticated design and workmanship.

Country: United States
Circa: 1904-1913
Dimensions: 18" length
Materials: 18K Gold
Signed: MARCUS & CO, with engraved numbers 12476 and 43086
Documentation: The drawing appears in the volume Chains, Necklaces, Hair Ornaments, Hat Pins, No. 2, p. 41, housed in Dartmouth's Rauner Library. The volume is digitized.


A drawing for the necklace in gouache appears in the firm's design books held in the archive of eight volumes at Dartmouth's Rauner Library. Judging by the deft and expressive hand, the designer was likely George Marcus, the artistic son of the firm's founder Herman. George and his brother William would have been exposed to Art Nouveau jewelry on their frequent trips to Europe during this period.