Antique Japanese Brocade Kesa Monk's Robe Edo Period

A Japanese Kesa (Monk's Vestment) made from thirteen columns of patchworks of shimmering woven brocades. The elaborate motifs feature repetitive hibiscus flowers within framework of scrolling pattern. Mostly golden, the petals occasionally turned blue and with the nature of patchwork, creates a random and delightful visual effect. Six silk square in contrasting patterns and colors (blue and white) were sewn to the four corners and one longitude side of the Kesa, completing the symbolism of the robe. The four squares in the corners represent the Four Heavenly Kings (Shi Tenno); while the two slightly larger squares in the middle section represent two compassionate bodhisattvas. The patches were apparently taken from a silk panel with imagery of peonies and phoenix. The back of the Kesa was lined with blue silk with subtle woven pattern, which if of a later replacement as it often happened.
Kesa is derived from the Sanskrit word kasaya, meaning “dark colored,” a reference to the saffron colored robes worn by early Indian Buddhist monks. It is essentially a rectangular cloth originally sewn from patches of rags, being formless, it serves as a symbolism of the ascetic life of one's choosing. In Japan, since at least the Heian period (794–1185), the kesa has been worn by Buddhist priests as their outermost robe, draped over the left shoulder and attached under the right armpit. While it served some function of protection, it was more a signal of the wearer’s faith, and became increasingly elaborate over the centuries. During the Edo period (1600–1868), many kesa worn were patched together from exquisite silk brocade fabrics that were donated to the temples by members of the aristocracy, ruling military class, or wealthy merchants. By stitching the fabric into a patchwork robe, the monks concentrated their attention on the creation of a devotional work of art, every stitch part of an act of meditation on the teachings of the Buddha. The number of stripes (from 5 to up to 25) indicates the wearer’s rank and the occasion for which it was worn, the highest number of stripes usually only being worn by an abbot during festival ceremonies. The normal daily kesa generally have seven columns. The kesa on offer is more likely a ceremonial robe for special occasion.